Layers

Among the many fascinating and clever things Samin Nosrat writes about in her amazing book Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat is the idea of using those four elements at different times during the preparation of a single dish. She uses the term “layering” to describe the approach of building complex and satisfying flavors this way: layering salt by using it not only to brine, but also to season and finish. Layering acids by using one to marinade and a different one later to drizzle. These layers add depth and dimension to food.

Physical layers create interest and satisfaction as well. Croissants and baklava are famous for their delicate layers. Pizza can be thought of as a large, round, layered dish. And sandwiches aren’t just convenient to make: by stacking ingredients on top of each other they provide contrast in texture and mouthfeel. A sandwich presents with a certain amount of order that we can investigate not only with our eyes but with our mouths: we know a sandwich by the biting and chewing of it.

But the finest example of layering, both in terms of preparation and assembly is the taco. The preparation of the meat involves seasoning with acid from a few tomatoes, salt and of course the heat of the pan sizzling the fat. A bit more fat in the form of cheese or avocado toppings, and likewise a bit more acid in the pico de gallo. Maybe a little more salt in the Tajin sprinkled on top or on a hard taco shell. The physical layers of ingredients, themselves layered with flavors, create one of the most fun and satisfying meals of the week: taco night—or as we like to call it, taco fiesta.